Another stuck case in resizing die thread - for the reloading newbees.

[bltefft]

Another stuck case in resizing die thread - for the reloading newbees.

As most know, I have tons of experience with straigth walled cases. In all my years of reloading I have never stuck one, no not one.

But that record is gone. I stuck the very first .223 Rem case I tried in my .223 Lyman resizing die yesterday - the very first one I tried to resize, dang it. I guess I didn't lube it enough - lesson learned. And I was warned to watch out for .223, dah on me.

So, I went to Lowe's and bought me a #7 drill bit, a 1/4-20 tap, and a 1/4-20 tap bolt.
Before I left for Lowe's I gave the sides of the stuck case a few shots of Kroil - figured it couldn't hurt.

I was happy to see that DeWalt packages a #7 drill bit and a 1/4-20 tap in a single package - how convenient.

Then, I went to the hardware section and bought a 1/4-20 x 2 inch tap bolt - it is threaded all the way from top to bottom.

While looking for the tap bolt, I saw a 1.5 inch spacer and bought that, too, even though I realize a socket would have worked as well. But I was assembling the parts for a homemade stuck case remover set and I did not want to assign my socket to it.

I already had bunches of 1/4, 3/16, 1/2 inch washers to go on top of the spacer, so I didn't have to buy any of them.

I also bought a tap wrench (that was the major expense). I didn't really need it, but it sure made the task easier.


To actually remove the stuck case here's what I did:

1- I was able remove the deprimer/decapper pin so I knew I was not going to hit it with the #7 drill bit. I was trying to get it up out of the way and was happy that it came out. Otherwise, I would have tried to drill w/o hitting the depriming pin (at least, if I had hit it, it is replaceable.

2- After putting the die in my padded vise, I used the #7 drill bit to drill through the hole in the center of the primer pocket

3- Then, I used the 1/4-20 tap to thread the hole I had just drilled into the primer pocket.

4- Next, I placed the spacer on the die around the stuck case.

5- Finally, I put a number of washers on the bolt and then inserted the bolt through the spacer and screwed it into the threaded hole I drilled into the case.

6- Then, I just tightened down on the bolt and felt it smug up and stop against the washers atop the spacer. Time to get a long handle ratchet. The long handled ratchet made quick work of it. The spinning bolt pulled that stuck case right out into the spacer.

But you know, I was wondering. Instead of just turning the bolt, would it have been more efficient to put a nut on the bolt, and then hold the bolt while I tightened the nut against the washers on top of the spacer. That way, instead to the bolt turning as it pulled, the bolt would have just pulled the case straight up (like the press ram pulls it straight down).

I know I just reinvented the wheel, but buying these few parts was a lot less costly the buying one of those stuck case removal kits online.

This thread is the compilation of much research on how to remove a stuck case, so I thought I'd give you all a "Cliff Notes" version on removing a stuck case form a resizing die..

Hope no one minds.

Hack

[SGT.Cap]

Thanks for the tips. i gottta get my reloading operation off the ground.

[jeclif]

what lub are you using
have you ever used imperial size wax---that is what I like

[bltefft]

what lub are you using
have you ever used imperial size wax---that is what I like

I have always used Hornady's One Shot and am pretty sure the fault for having the stuck was mine.

I don't think I lubed the case enough.

Several have recommended the Imperial Wax. I'm gonna get some and try it out.

Hack

[Strycnine]

Thanks for the tip. So far I've been lucky and haven't stuck one.

Almost every time I hear about a stuck case they're using One Shot. I use RCBS lube and lube pad.

[BigBlack]

I have always used Hornady's One Shot and am pretty sure the fault for having the stuck was mine.

I don't think I lubed the case enough.

Several have recommended the Imperial Wax. I'm gonna get some and try it out.

Hack

Let me ask how you lubed this one case for I had the same expierance with a 243 and removed in the same fashion as you but had the parts laying around in our shop to build my remover.

For me I think I tried to resize to quick after lubing not letting enough aresole evaporate. See I had one case to size, mis counted in my batch. I held it up by hand and sprayed the case and immiediatly put it in the press.

My usual lubbing method is I put a handfull of cases in a big kitchen screen type strainer. I spray the cases and toss around and spray again. By the time I start pulling them out to size they have been lube for a while.

[bltefft]

I, too, put my cases in a Baggy. Spray the One Shot inside. Seal the bag and kinda let them fall all over each other in the baggy.

However, the 223 case I stuck was not in a baggy. I was impatient to try it and just kinda sprayed some One Shot on it. I probably didn't give it time to dry.

Many have recommended Imperial Wax and Hornady's Unique to me.

Both are sold by Midway and both have rave reviews, with Imperial having about 3 x's more. You swipe your finger tips across the wax and as you handle your brass, it gets lubed.

The prices are:
Imperial - 6.49 for 2 ozs (and it was on sale)
Hornady - 4.09 for 4 ozs

I'm gonna try the Hornady Unique.

Hack

[BigBlack]

Looks like we did the same thing then. Spray the case and put right in the die not giving the aresole time to evaporate.