Thread: Range Report - Spikes 22 conversion kit, bad then good

Range Report - Spikes 22 conversion kit, bad then good

Well, I took my new AR 15 and the new Spikes 22 conversion kit to the indoor range. I put 15 long rifle rounds in the magazine - and proceeded to shoot. Crap!

Of the 15 rounds, only 6 fired when I pulled the trigger. The rest were silent, nothing happened – light strikes. I hand to pull back on the charging handle to cycle the next round, which often didn’t fire either!

I looked at the base of the unfired rounds and the dent from the firing pin was REAL light. I took out my Ruger Mark III and all the light strikes fired, so it wasn’t bad ammo.

I thought to myself, “May have to get a stronger hammer spring.”

So, I dropped by my gun smith to ask him about the heavier hammer spring. He took a look inside the AR and said, “The hammer spring’s in backwards.” I said “What?!” (I knew I hadn’t done it, because I’ve never fooled around with my new AR). So, I asked, “Will that make a difference?”

To me a spring is a spring and I didn’t know it would matter which way it was put in. He said, “Yep, a backwards hammer spring makes a lot of difference.” So, I left it with him. He called later that day and said it was ready. I asked him if he had any idea about how it could have been put in backwards. Best he could figure was that whoever assembled the AR wasn’t paying attention.

So, back to the range I go. Man, what a difference! Granted, the trigger pull is noticeably firmer, but every one of the 150 long rifles I put through it fired. Man, I was happy.

Of the 150 rounds fired I had 3 empty cases fail to cleanly leave the rifle upon ejection and interfered with the chambering of the next round. I had to clear it with the charging handle. I reckon I may have to snip off 2-3 coils of the spring. I think the bolt may be moving forward too fast.

Any of you guys every snipped off any coils or ever heard of it being done?

Hack

No idea on the springs, but I enjoyed the report. Glad it finally worked out. I did change out the trigger spring in my Marlin 917 with a Papermate pen spring, but I didn't cut any coils.

yes, but clip 2 not 3. if it continues then clip one more, but two should do it with that little of a failure to eject

happy shooting!!

I visited a forum that was dedicated to the Spikes kit and it said to snip off some coils, just be sure not to get the spring less that 7.25, (or 7.5, can't remember which) inches long. So, I snipped off 2 coils and it is a tack driver and shot much, much better - still had a few fail to leave the AR, but I'm gonna shoot many more before I cut again. I wasn't expecting a super accurate thing, but it is.

You know those little 1-inch black stick-ons that you use to cover the hits on a Shoot-N-See target? Well, I stick 6 of the them around the margins of the cardboard holding my target and fired 2 shoots each at them. The AR was supported (w/ scope) and it was easy to put 2 holes in each little black dot from 50 yds away (as far as I could send it in the indoor range).

The employee working the counter could see me through the glass. When I finished and came out, he remarked that he was impressed with the tight groups it shot.

I'm very happy with it.

Now, I'm going to try some other brands of 22 ammo. The Federal 550 bulk pack and CCI Stingers are a winner. Both are plated, I'm wondering about the wisdom of shooting the lead (nonplated) 22s.

I put the BSA 3-9x40 scope (the one that didn't hold zero if you changed the power) on the AR and left it on 4x. It is a nail driver - I just got to remember to leave the magnification of the scope alone. So, the BSA is dedicated to the 22 conversion kit - beats throwing the dang thing in the trash.

I've also got to settle on what brand of 22s I'm gonna stick with because I zeroed it with the Federal (from the 550 bulk pack) at 50 yds. The Federals are heavier and slower than the CCI Stingers and all the Stinges hit high in a tight little group. Since Feds are cheaper the CCIs, I'll probably stay with them.

Hack

plated or not will not make any difference in leading up the barrel. The plating is too thin to prevent it. I run a Spikes dedicated upper and it loves Federal Automatch which is not plated.

Originally Posted by SGT.Cap

plated or not will not make any difference in leading up the barrel. The plating is too thin to prevent it. I run a Spikes dedicated upper and it loves Federal Automatch which is not plated.

Thanks, I didn't know that about plated vs lead.

Hack

Originally Posted by SGT.Cap

plated or not will not make any difference in leading up the barrel. The plating is too thin to prevent it. I run a Spikes dedicated upper and it loves Federal Automatch which is not plated.

Mines Bassackwards. I run the 550 round copper coated value packs. In fact I will not run any non copper coated in any gun I own,ever.
I run a Spikes dedicated upper also vs a kit. I get superior accuracy and function without the worry of kack in my gas tube or my nice chrome 1/7 16" 5.56.
With the ammo cost saved, it just paid for itself in a short amount of time.
Kit's drool, dedicated uppers rule!

The only thing i run in mine is CCI subs. after a while i will notice a little lead shaved build up on the feed ramp. But, a machinist buddy of mine beveled the edges and polished the feedramp and chamber to a mirror finish. Not a single problem since. Probably 2000 rds.